ALASKA TRIPS 2011 — 2012

We believe that being able to travel and climb and experience completely different mountain terrain enables one to personally develop into a better and more well-rounded climber. Being able to travel in wild and remote mountain cultures develops an appreciation of our own culture.

Wherever you go with us our low guide-to-client ratios allow you to learn and climb safely. You will never feel like one of the crowd on one of our trips. We use only local seasoned help. Our local guides, pilots, porters and cooks are the best in the area and strive to make each trip a most memorable one for our clients. While our Alaskan and South American trips are physically demanding they vary in technical difficulty. You don't have to be an expert climber to enjoy the climbing and since many of our trips involve minimal travel to reach fantastic locations you don't necessarily require an abundance of time away from your home, family and job. You do need physical and mental tenacity, and a well-developed sense of adventure.

An example of some of the trips we offer:

Alaska

Mount Huntington via West Face Couloir

Mount Huntington is widely regarded as the most beautiful of all Alaska's many mountains and it is difficult to argue otherwise. Mount Huntington is a climber's mountain with steep ridges and faces it offers no easy way to its summit. Every route requires solid technical climbing skills along with cool mental composure. Set at the head of the dramatic Tokositna glacier the scenery is awesome making the mountain seem anything but moderate. In fact the West Face Couloir is a very reasonable objective for the technical climber who is comfortable front-pointing up WI4 terrain all day. With an altitude gain of over 4,000 feet from camp to summit this route provides the ultimate ttest in light and fast alpine climbing. Sometimes taking as long as 36 hours with a short (4-5 hour) rest along the way for food, drink and a nap, this climb will remains an excellent test of mental and physical tenacity.

Description

After arriving in Anchorage we travel to Talkeetna, a small, historic town which is teeming with climbers every summer. After a day in Talkeetna checking and double checking gear and preparing food for our time in the hills we take a spectacular ski-plane flight into the Tokositna Glacier where base camp is established at the foot of our objective. For the West Face Couloir we typically depart from camp around midnight so as to take advantage of the cold temperatures and firm snow conditions. Leaving camp we ascend gradually up 40-50 degree snow which narrows into the couloir proper. From this point for the next 2,500 feet we are climbing near-vertical calf-burning pitches of ice and easy mixed climbing flanked by granite walls. At the top of this ramp we are 3/4 of the way up our route and at the last location where we can stop, sit down and brew some tea and eat some food. From here the remainder of the route is less technical but still demanding as we traverse snow slopes, which depending on conditions may either be firm neve or knee-deep crud. Like most great mountains, Huntington's summit doesn't come easily but its reward is one you will never forget.

Length

10 days.

Ratio

2 clients, 1 guide.

Prerequisites

Significant technical experience on ice, snow and rock.

Price

$4,000 per person.