ICE REPORT (last updated: 01/08/2008)
Summit County
Lots of snow has made for more work than usual approaching the climbs and has also added mmore danger to the approaches. Be sure to check the current avi conditions before you go out to climb. All the climbs in Officer's Gulch are IN. So much snow has fallen that much of the vertical relief of these routes has been buried by so much snow. Mount Lincoln continues to be excellent ice condition with more ice than usual on the left side and at the same time having less ice in the upper right side.
Lots of snow has made for more work than usual approaching the climbs and has also added mmore danger to the approaches. Be sure to check the current avi conditions before you go out to climb. All the climbs in Officer's Gulch are IN. So much snow has fallen that much of the vertical relief of these routes has been buried by so much snow. Mount Lincoln continues to be excellent ice condition with more ice than usual on the left side and at the same time having less ice in the upper right side.
| Candlestick | 10/20 | Candlestick is still getting thicker and beginning to snow-cone over. |
| Mt Lincoln Ice | 10/26 | Some ice has formed but most of the routes are still to come. Probably about three or four climbs at the moment |
| Tony's Nightmare | 10/20 | IN |
Front Range
The ice is getting chopped up in Clear Creek but there is still enough to have funu on. In Boulder Canyon the Lower ice is gone and the Upper ice is really beat-up. It might be getting time to think about rock climbing in BLDR CYN rather than ice climb.
The ice is getting chopped up in Clear Creek but there is still enough to have funu on. In Boulder Canyon the Lower ice is gone and the Upper ice is really beat-up. It might be getting time to think about rock climbing in BLDR CYN rather than ice climb.
| Flatirons other places | 10/26 | Nothing has formed still too warm and no moisture |
Clear Creek Canyon
Still lots of ice in this area and seeing lots of action, even at night. Nothing new has formed in this area.
Still lots of ice in this area and seeing lots of action, even at night. Nothing new has formed in this area.
| Coors Light etc | 10/26 | Nothing yet. Still too early |
Boulder Canyon
The Upper Boulder Canyon ice climbing area, above Castle rock continues to be well-formed and seeing lots of action. Nothing new to report. The Lower Canyon Ice has formed up better than previously and is easy but fun. Fairly dry area around the ice.
The Upper Boulder Canyon ice climbing area, above Castle rock continues to be well-formed and seeing lots of action. Nothing new to report. The Lower Canyon Ice has formed up better than previously and is easy but fun. Fairly dry area around the ice.
| Castle Rock Climbs | 10/26 | Nothing yet. Too early. Maybe in mid-December |
RMNP
In the last week the temps have increased and south-facing climbs might be disappearing or getting very thin. Approaches to many climbs might be pretty deep with snow and so take more time than usual. Bring some floatation devices along until these trails get packed out. In general we are having a better than usual season of ice with many routes still in good shape despite the extreme cold and snow. Routes that are thick and good to climb right now are Jaws, All-Mixed-Up and the accompaning routes next to it. The Squid might be on the way out and the same could be said for Jaws. The routes over by the Olympic Games Wall seem to have gone away. Loch Vale area is pretty hammered and sublimating out. Alexander's Chimney is still in shape but not much else in that area. Hidden Falls is in a chopped-up state but still fun and getting climbed alot. Black Lake Slabs area is in very good shape. Martha is just a thin streak of ice with some snow on it so it might be on the way out.
In the last week the temps have increased and south-facing climbs might be disappearing or getting very thin. Approaches to many climbs might be pretty deep with snow and so take more time than usual. Bring some floatation devices along until these trails get packed out. In general we are having a better than usual season of ice with many routes still in good shape despite the extreme cold and snow. Routes that are thick and good to climb right now are Jaws, All-Mixed-Up and the accompaning routes next to it. The Squid might be on the way out and the same could be said for Jaws. The routes over by the Olympic Games Wall seem to have gone away. Loch Vale area is pretty hammered and sublimating out. Alexander's Chimney is still in shape but not much else in that area. Hidden Falls is in a chopped-up state but still fun and getting climbed alot. Black Lake Slabs area is in very good shape. Martha is just a thin streak of ice with some snow on it so it might be on the way out.
| Alexander's Chimney | 10/25 | The first two pitches are in good shape; nice and icey. The top half of the climb is still mainly rock climbing. |
| All-Mixed-Up | 12/26 | All-Mixed-Up is in great shape. Therre are several climbs to the right that have formed and Baracuda is also formed up the full four pitches. Snow is deep on the approach (2-3 feet) and there is some avalanche risk. |
| Dreamweaver | 10/26 | Dreamweaver is in pretty good shape. Mostly snow with some icey bits. |
| Field's Chimney | 10/26 | Not much ice in this climb at the moment. Maybe with some more snow we'll be good to go. |
| Hallett's Chimney | 10/26 | Don't know yet but it seems as if the conditions are just about right for something to be formed in there. There is a fair amount of snow above the climb, it's been warm, the chimney is in the shade all day but no one knows.......... |
| Hidden Falls | 12/26 | Hidden Falls is in really thick and getting climbed. About a 30 minute approach at the moment. |
| Jaws | 01/08 | Jaws continues to be in good shape. Two pillars that as of 1.08. 08 were still standing and climbable. Pretty wet conditionswith this nice weather. |
| Loch Vale area | 10/26 | There is some ice here but not much. Probably enough for an afternoon of fun. None of the hard mixed routes in this area (Mixed Feelings etc) are in yet. |
| Martha | 01/08 | Martha is in good shape and getting climbed. Currently rated about WI3, M5. |
| Mt. Lady Washington | 10/26 | First there was some ice and then there wasn't and now there isn't any. You've got to be quick to catch this one., |
| Necrophilia and Deep Freeze | 10/26 | Necrophilia came in about one month ago (Sept. 20th) after a brief but big snow storm. It melted out aboutone week later. Now neither it nor Deep Freeze are there. |
| Notchtop | 10/26 | The NE face route is in good shape. The first and second rock bands have moderate mixed climbing and the avi danger seems moderate. This face will probably be safe until the next snowfall. No rreport yet on Hot Doggie or any of the climbs on Guide's Wall. |
| The Smear of Fear | 10/26 | The Smear has been formed now for about one month. The Direct Start is not formed. Traverse in from the left, get on the very thin ice and gently crampon to the overlap and the first belay. Second pitch ice is thick and there is no third pitch. |
| The Squid and Calamari | 01/08 | The Squid is still standing and getting climbed. Bring large (#3.5/#4 Friend sized) rock gear for the bottom. Snowshoes for the approach. |
Vail Ice
Vail is in full swing with all routes in great shape and getting climbed. The rigid Designator is in a chopped-up state but still fun and worth doing. The Fang is getting climbed at WI5/5+ condition. Lots of action on the mixed routes to the right of Bunny Slope/Cup Cake Corner. Booth Creek, across the highway is seeing action and currently there is a good trail beat up to the climbs. Nothing new or unusual has formed up yet.
Vail is in full swing with all routes in great shape and getting climbed. The rigid Designator is in a chopped-up state but still fun and worth doing. The Fang is getting climbed at WI5/5+ condition. Lots of action on the mixed routes to the right of Bunny Slope/Cup Cake Corner. Booth Creek, across the highway is seeing action and currently there is a good trail beat up to the climbs. Nothing new or unusual has formed up yet.
| Rigid Designator area | 12/06 | Rigid Designator is formed. Spiral Stiars is formed. A few other climbs are formed. It's time.... |
Ouray Ice Park
Ouray Ice Park got pretty hammered over the ice festival but the crew down there are doing their best to make it all better. Generally this year there are a few new mixed routes by the Tic-Tac area that have seen alot of action and a few shorter, easier routes just south of there. The number of climbers has dropped off some so it is less crowded. No changes here since the middle of February.
Ouray Ice Park got pretty hammered over the ice festival but the crew down there are doing their best to make it all better. Generally this year there are a few new mixed routes by the Tic-Tac area that have seen alot of action and a few shorter, easier routes just south of there. The number of climbers has dropped off some so it is less crowded. No changes here since the middle of February.
| Ouray Ice Park Climbs | 11/30 | The official opening of the Ice Park is Dec. 15th. Nothing yet. The ice is forming up nicely |
Ouray
There has been alot of snowfall in Ouray the past few weeks and that has meant that at the top of some climbs (The Ribbon, BBB, ) the danger of getting hit by a avalanche is pretty real. Check locally for avalanche conditions before heading out. Generally most climbs are IN. Gravity's Rainbow is currently in all the way. Hurry and climb this south-facing climb before it disappears. Right now it is an easy grade. Solar Circus in Bear Creek (close to Gravity's Rainbow) has formed for the first time iin many years. It won't last long in the sun! Horse Tail is also IN. Most climbs on Camp Bird are IN. The Skylight, Killer Pillar, Heart of Darkness, others are all getting climbed. Dexter Slab is looking good but has much snow on it. BBB is thin and snow-covered but climbable. Several new routes have been getting climbed in the Bear Creek area and around Gravity's Rainbow area. Steep WI5+ and/or WI6. This season might be the best in years.
There has been alot of snowfall in Ouray the past few weeks and that has meant that at the top of some climbs (The Ribbon, BBB, ) the danger of getting hit by a avalanche is pretty real. Check locally for avalanche conditions before heading out. Generally most climbs are IN. Gravity's Rainbow is currently in all the way. Hurry and climb this south-facing climb before it disappears. Right now it is an easy grade. Solar Circus in Bear Creek (close to Gravity's Rainbow) has formed for the first time iin many years. It won't last long in the sun! Horse Tail is also IN. Most climbs on Camp Bird are IN. The Skylight, Killer Pillar, Heart of Darkness, others are all getting climbed. Dexter Slab is looking good but has much snow on it. BBB is thin and snow-covered but climbable. Several new routes have been getting climbed in the Bear Creek area and around Gravity's Rainbow area. Steep WI5+ and/or WI6. This season might be the best in years.
| Climbs in the Ouray Area | 10/26 | Nothing has formed yet. Still drier than last year. |
Silverton Area
Most climbs in Silverton are up and getting climbed. There is alot more snow than usual this year and several climbs have formed that are potential FAs. Dukes of Hazard has formed all the way down, Bad Ass pencil is formed, Stairway, Whorehouse Hoses is IN.
Most climbs in Silverton are up and getting climbed. There is alot more snow than usual this year and several climbs have formed that are potential FAs. Dukes of Hazard has formed all the way down, Bad Ass pencil is formed, Stairway, Whorehouse Hoses is IN.
| Stairway to Heaven | 10/26 | Not formed yet. More snow necessary. |
| Whore House Hose | 10/26 | Nothing yet. |
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