ICE REPORT (last updated: 01/18/2011)

Summit County
Lincoln falls is IN. There is more ice than last year but the Upper and Lower main falls haven't formed. The Scottish gully is in good shape at WI3 and steps of WI4. There is a fun WI4 climb to the far left that can be top-roped from trees. It's short (30feet) but fun. There are currently lots of little steep steps that make the climbing fun and diverse.

Candlestick 01/18 The Candlestick (AKA The Needle) is formed all the way. Steep at WI4+. Avalanche conditions are high right now (Jan. 19, 2011).
Glenwood Ice fall 01/18 Glenwood Falls has been coming in and then going out of shape. Not climbable in its current condition.
Mt Lincoln Ice 01/18 Not much has changed conditions-wise since the beginning of the year. The steeper icefalls will not form this season. WI2-3+.
Tony's Nightmare 02/11 is formed and getting climbed.
Total Abandon 01/18 Total Abandon has not formed this season.
Front Range
The first Flatiron was in but not has melted away. Nothing else has formed.

Flatirons other places 01/18 There was ice on the First Flatiron but that disappeared monday, Jan. 17. Nothing else that I am aware of.
Clear Creek Canyon
some ice in Second drainage. Coors Lite is IN.

Coors Light etc 12/16 Coors Lite is thin but climbable.
Boulder Canyon
Currently there is very little ice. Not worth the trip.

Castle Rock Climbs 02/11 The ice is pretty hacked and beaten up at both the Lower and the Upper areas.
Most trails into the climbs are packed and skis or snowshoes aren't necessary right now. Some snow has fallen recently but basically the only thing that has changed would be the avalanche conditions. Routes that are in are: Black Lake Slabs is IN. Stone IN. Martha is mainly a snow route. Jaws is IN and getting climbed. Jaws is probably not in. All-Mixed-Up. Thin ice. Bring more rock gear than ice gear. Baracuda (to the right of AMU)is NOT in. Notchtop East (or Northeast) Face is IN It's getting climbed. Alexander's Chimney: mainly rock, not much ice. Peacock Pool routes are still in good shape. Jewel Lake ice is IN. Dreamweaver is snow. Grace Falls has come in and is WI4. . Loch Vale Ice is IN but there isn't much ice. Hidden Falls is IN and seeing lots of action.

Alexander's Chimney 01/18 Alexander's is very thin. The first pitch and second pitch have "some" ice but the remainder of the climb is rock or snow on rock.
All-Mixed-Up 01/18 AMU is IN and getting some action. The ice has thickened up and now Stubbies as well as rock gear is being used for protection. Check for avalanche conditions..
Dreamweaver 01/18 Dreamweaver is a snow climb. IIt has seen one ski descent this season. No ice yet..
Field's Chimney 01/18 No ice that I am aware of. .
Flying Dutchman 11/20 Nothing so far.
Hallett's Chimney 01/18 Not formed.
Hidden Falls 01/18 Hidden is getting climbed on a regular basis. Expect chopped-up ice.
Jaws 01/18 Jaws has formed and is getting climbed. In WI4 shape.
Loch Vale area 02/11 There is some ice but not as much as in previous seasons. A lean year here.
Martha 12/16 Martha is NOT in. Mostly snow right now.
Mt. Lady Washington 12/16 As of Dec. 15th, nothing is in.
Necrophilia and Deep Freeze 01/18 Necrophilia is NOT in. Deep Freeze is not IN.
Notchtop 01/18 The Northeast/East face is getting climbed and has been in shape now for about two months. As always check avalanche conditions before going up.
The Smear of Fear 02/11 The Smear is NOT in.
The Squid and Calamari 01/18 Nothing at the moment.
Vail Ice
The Firehouse area is looking good. There is a new route left of Spiral Staircase (M6+). There are several new M-routes that have recently gone in here. From left to right the routes here are as follows: West Corner WI3, M4 Unknow. Unclimbed? Project? West Slab WI3 Meat Puppets WI5, M7 Lowe-Gravity WI4 Dragon Breath WI5, M6+ Eastern Xpansion WI4, M6+ Rehab is for Quitters M6+ Modus Operandi M7- Silver-Tongued Devil WI5, M6 Unknown Trad M6+ Rigid Designator is IN and in WI5 shape. Spiral Staircase is IN 2 WI3. The Pencil and the Eraser are both IN. Pumphouse is IN. Secret Probation is IN. Frigid Inseminator is IN and thin. The Fang is NOT in. There are about 4 new bolted routes in the Amphitheatre area. All are M8-10. More information is forthcoming. Booth Creek area has six routes that are IN.

Rigid Designator area 01/18 The Rigid Designator is getting climbed. Several new M-routes in this area. About M8/9. The Fang has not formed. Several new M-routes in Firehouse area. Spiral is in good shape. Secret Probation is beat-up. Nothing new has formed.
Ouray Ice Park
The Ice Park is fully operational and going strong. The usual crowds prevail.

Ouray Ice Park Climbs 01/18 The Ice Park is up and running full steam.
Horsetail Falls is IN. Over the Rainbow is not IN. Cascade Falls is NOT. Kennedy's is IN. Many other routes are forming. Skylight area has some good routes formed. Slip Slidin' Away, Skylight, Slippery When Wet are all IN. The Ribbon and Bird Brain Blvd and the Talisman are all getting climbed. The Talisman is rated (by pitch); Pitch 1 5.6/7. It's dry. Pitch 2 M6, WI5+ Pitch 3 WI5+ Pitch 4 WI5 Bird Brain is pretty dry and getting a bit hacked up but it is still climbable. The Ribbon is in the best shape we've seen for three years. Check Avi conditions for this one.

Ames Ice Hose 01/18 Pitch One is thin and chopped but because it is chopped is very climbable and can be protected with 16cm screws. Pitch Two is in good shape and is protected by 16cm screws Last Pitch is the usual endurance climbing..........good gear throughout.
Climbs in the Ouray Area 01/18 Over the Rainbow is IN. Horsetail Falls is IN. Cascade Falls is OUT. Kennedy's is IN.
Silverton Area
Stairway to Heaven is IN. Second Gully is IN. Hoser Highway is IN. Whorehouse Hoses is IN Gold Rush is IN. Gully One is IN. As always check avalanche conditions.

Stairway to Heaven 01/18 Stairway is formed all the way and getting climbed regularily. All pitches are formed.
Whore House Hose 01/18 The entire climb is IN and in steep, thick shape.
Pike's Peak
Blind Assumption and Total Abandon have NOT formed so far this year. Not much ice in Colorado Springs this season.

Blind Assumption 01/18 Blind Assumption has not come into shape this year.
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