ICE REPORT (last updated: 02/11/2010)
Summit County
Lincoln falls is IN. There is not as much ice as in previous years but there is enough ice for everyone to climb. The Scottish gully is in good shape at WI3 and steps of WI4. The Upper Falls is slowly getting longer but some ice has fallen off in the past week. At the moment there should be enough ice for several parties to climb at the same time. There is a fun WI4 climb to the far left that can be top-roped from trees. It's short (30feet) but fun. There are currently lots of little steep steps that make the climbing fun and diverse.
Lincoln falls is IN. There is not as much ice as in previous years but there is enough ice for everyone to climb. The Scottish gully is in good shape at WI3 and steps of WI4. The Upper Falls is slowly getting longer but some ice has fallen off in the past week. At the moment there should be enough ice for several parties to climb at the same time. There is a fun WI4 climb to the far left that can be top-roped from trees. It's short (30feet) but fun. There are currently lots of little steep steps that make the climbing fun and diverse.
| Candlestick | 02/11 | The Candlestick (AKA The Needle) is formed all the way. Steep at WI4+. It's seen a fair number of ascents this year. Rumour has it that it is getting chopped........... |
| Glenwood Ice fall | 02/11 | Glenwood Ice Fall has been IN for about one month. It's beginning to fall apart but on a cold morning with cloud cover, it would still be a blast to climb. As of Feb.10, there were two seperate lines. |
| Mt Lincoln Ice | 02/11 | There is still ice here for the person who is wanting a short approach and who doesn't want to climb anything difficult. Not much has changed conditions-wise since the beginning of the year. |
| Tony's Nightmare | 02/11 | is formed and getting climbed. |
| Total Abandon | 12/16 | Total Abandon is in great shape right now with the first pitch lightly iced (M4/5) and well protected with nuts and cams. Pitch two is WI4 and is protectable with two screws and nuts. Bring a #3 Camelot. Pitch three is easy and mostly kicked-out. Be aware of avalanche danger on the hike in. |
Front Range
There is a ton of fresh snow in the foothills around Boulder (Feb. 9th) but no ice as of yet. In the next few days ice may form on the Flatirons.
There is a ton of fresh snow in the foothills around Boulder (Feb. 9th) but no ice as of yet. In the next few days ice may form on the Flatirons.
| Flatirons other places | 02/11 | No ice in the Flatirons that I am aware of. The last storm dumped snow but nothing formed. |
Clear Creek Canyon
Much of the ice has broken and fallen away. SECOND and THIRD CREEK have ice still. Nothing new.
Much of the ice has broken and fallen away. SECOND and THIRD CREEK have ice still. Nothing new.
| Coors Light etc | 12/16 | Coors Lite is thin but climbable. |
Boulder Canyon
There is ice at the Lower and Upper Falls but both areas are chopped and beaten up. Not really much to climb on.
There is ice at the Lower and Upper Falls but both areas are chopped and beaten up. Not really much to climb on.
| Castle Rock Climbs | 02/11 | The ice is pretty hacked and beaten up at both the Lower and the Upper areas. |
RMNP
Most trails into the climbs are packed and skis or snowshoes aren't necessary right now. Some snow has fallen recently but basically the only thing that has changed would be the avalanche conditions. Ice climbs remain about the same. Routes that are in are: Black Lake Slabs is IN. Stone Man.....is almost gone but still climbable. Martha is IN. The ice is looking used and abused everywhere. Jaws is probably not unclimbable. All-Mixed-Up. Thin ice. Bring more rock gear than ice gear. Baracuda (to the right of AMU)is thin but STILL climbable. Notchtop East (or Northeast) Face. First pitch is the crux. Bring ice screws and the usual rock gear. It's getting climbed. Alexander's Chimney: mainly rock, not much ice. Peacock Pool routes are still in good shape. Bullett (over by Hallett's) is gone. Jewel Lake ice is IN and is very popular. Dreamweaver is snow. Grace Falls has come in and is WI4. New Beginnings is NOT. Loch Vale Ice is IN but barely. Hidden Falls is HAMMERED!!
Most trails into the climbs are packed and skis or snowshoes aren't necessary right now. Some snow has fallen recently but basically the only thing that has changed would be the avalanche conditions. Ice climbs remain about the same. Routes that are in are: Black Lake Slabs is IN. Stone Man.....is almost gone but still climbable. Martha is IN. The ice is looking used and abused everywhere. Jaws is probably not unclimbable. All-Mixed-Up. Thin ice. Bring more rock gear than ice gear. Baracuda (to the right of AMU)is thin but STILL climbable. Notchtop East (or Northeast) Face. First pitch is the crux. Bring ice screws and the usual rock gear. It's getting climbed. Alexander's Chimney: mainly rock, not much ice. Peacock Pool routes are still in good shape. Bullett (over by Hallett's) is gone. Jewel Lake ice is IN and is very popular. Dreamweaver is snow. Grace Falls has come in and is WI4. New Beginnings is NOT. Loch Vale Ice is IN but barely. Hidden Falls is HAMMERED!!
| Alexander's Chimney | 02/11 | Alexander's is very thin. The first pitch and second pitch have "some" ice but the remainder of the climb is rock. We can hope for more ice this Spring. |
| All-Mixed-Up | 02/11 | AMU is climbable but very thin. The ice is thin and rock gear is mainly preferred over ice screws. Not seeing much action it seems but there is still enough ice for it to keep people interested and entertained. |
| Dreamweaver | 02/11 | Dreamweaver is a snow climb. I haven't heard of any ascents in over six weeks. |
| Field's Chimney | 02/11 | No ice that I am aware of. . |
| Flying Dutchman | 11/20 | Nothing so far. |
| Hallett's Chimney | 02/11 | Not formed. |
| Hidden Falls | 02/11 | The ice is beaten and left wanting........ Still thick enough to have fun on. Very popular on weekends. |
| Jaws | 02/11 | Jaws is not in climbable shape. The sun has beaten it into submission....... |
| Loch Vale area | 02/11 | There is some ice but not as much as in previous seasons. A lean year here. |
| Martha | 12/16 | Martha is NOT in. Mostly snow right now. |
| Mt. Lady Washington | 12/16 | As of Dec. 15th, nothing is in. |
| Necrophilia and Deep Freeze | 12/16 | Necrophilia is NOT in. Deep Freeze is not IN. |
| Notchtop | 12/16 | The Northeast/East face is getting climbed and has been in shape now for about one month. The first pitch is the crux. Protection is mainly from ice screws but take a light rock rack as well. Avi conditions seem moderate as of 12/15/09. |
| The Smear of Fear | 02/11 | The Smear is NOT in. |
| The Squid and Calamari | 02/11 | Nothing at the moment. |
Vail Ice
The Firehouse area is looking good. There are several new M-routes that have recently gone in here. From left to right the routes here are as follows: West Corner WI3, M4 Unknow. Unclimbed? Project? West Slab WI3 Meat Puppets WI5, M7 Lowe-Gravity WI4 Dragon Breath WI5, M6+ Eastern Xpansion WI4, M6+ Rehab is for Quitters M6+ Modus Operandi M7- Silver-Tongued Devil WI5, M6 Unknown Trad M6+ Spiral Staircase is chopped out at WI3. The Pencil and the Eraser are both IN. Secret Probation is beat up. Frigid Inseminator is chopped and thin. The Fang fell down on Jan. 13th but has reformed. As of Feb. 20th it was thin and narrow and NOT connected at the top. Be aware of this and stay off this climb for at least two weeks. We don't want a repeat of the last accident. The Rigid Designator is getting more translucent and it is pretty chopped-up. About WI4 I'd say. There are about 4 new bolted routes in the Amphitheatre area. All are M8-10. More information is forthcoming. Booth Creek area has four routes that are IN. The ice over there is looking very sun-baked. No trail as of Feb. 20th.
The Firehouse area is looking good. There are several new M-routes that have recently gone in here. From left to right the routes here are as follows: West Corner WI3, M4 Unknow. Unclimbed? Project? West Slab WI3 Meat Puppets WI5, M7 Lowe-Gravity WI4 Dragon Breath WI5, M6+ Eastern Xpansion WI4, M6+ Rehab is for Quitters M6+ Modus Operandi M7- Silver-Tongued Devil WI5, M6 Unknown Trad M6+ Spiral Staircase is chopped out at WI3. The Pencil and the Eraser are both IN. Secret Probation is beat up. Frigid Inseminator is chopped and thin. The Fang fell down on Jan. 13th but has reformed. As of Feb. 20th it was thin and narrow and NOT connected at the top. Be aware of this and stay off this climb for at least two weeks. We don't want a repeat of the last accident. The Rigid Designator is getting more translucent and it is pretty chopped-up. About WI4 I'd say. There are about 4 new bolted routes in the Amphitheatre area. All are M8-10. More information is forthcoming. Booth Creek area has four routes that are IN. The ice over there is looking very sun-baked. No trail as of Feb. 20th.
| Rigid Designator area | 02/11 | The Rigid Designator is getting beat-up. Several new M-routes in this area. About M8/9. The Fang has not reformed. Several new M-routes in Firehouse area. Spiral is in good shape. Secret Probation is beat-up. Nothing new has formed. |
Ouray Ice Park
Ice Park is looking good. Rumor has it that the ice is still in good shape and that the crowds are down. The park should be open for another month, temps depending.
Ice Park is looking good. Rumor has it that the ice is still in good shape and that the crowds are down. The park should be open for another month, temps depending.
| Ouray Ice Park Climbs | 11/20 | Nothing yet. The ice park opens around mid-December. |
Ouray
Horsetail Falls is IN. Over the Rainbow is IN. Cascade Falls is IN. Solar Circus is IN. Many other routes have formed. It's lookin' good. Skylight area is still lookin' good. The Ribbon and Bird Brain Blvd are NOT formed yet as ice routes but are seeing action as mainly rock (aka: mixed) routes. Ouray Ice Festival is January 8-11th.
Horsetail Falls is IN. Over the Rainbow is IN. Cascade Falls is IN. Solar Circus is IN. Many other routes have formed. It's lookin' good. Skylight area is still lookin' good. The Ribbon and Bird Brain Blvd are NOT formed yet as ice routes but are seeing action as mainly rock (aka: mixed) routes. Ouray Ice Festival is January 8-11th.
| Ames Ice Hose | 02/11 | Pitch One is thin and chopped but because it is chopped is very climbable and can be protected with 16cm screws. Pitch Two is thick and better than it has been the past two seasons. Totally safely protected with screws. Last Pitch is the usual endurance climbing..........good gear throughout. |
| Climbs in the Ouray Area | 02/11 | Over the Rainbow is IN. Horsetail FAlls is IN. Cascade Falls is OUT. Red Mtn Pass routes have gone OUT. |
Silverton Area
Stairway to Heaven is IN. Second Gully is IN. Hoser Highway is IN. Whorehouse Hoses is IN Nothing new has formed as far as I know. Avalanche conditions are probably moderate-high.
Stairway to Heaven is IN. Second Gully is IN. Hoser Highway is IN. Whorehouse Hoses is IN Nothing new has formed as far as I know. Avalanche conditions are probably moderate-high.
| Stairway to Heaven | 02/11 | Stairway is formed all the way and getting climbed regularily. All pitches are formed. |
| Whore House Hose | 02/11 | The entire climb is IN and in steep, thick shape. |
Pike's Peak
Blind Assumption and Total Abandon have been getting climbed since late September and I do not have recent information on their condition. There might still be some ice to climb.
Blind Assumption and Total Abandon have been getting climbed since late September and I do not have recent information on their condition. There might still be some ice to climb.
| Blind Assumption | 02/11 | Blind Assumption is still in shape. I'm not sure how great the ice is, just that there is enough to call it an ice climb. |
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