ICE REPORT (last updated: 12/17/2009)
Summit County
Lincoln falls is IN. There is not as much ice as in previous years but there is enough ice for everyone to climb. The Scottish gully is in good shape at WI3 and steps of WI4. The Upper Falls is slowly getting longer but some ice has fallen off in the past week. At the moment there should be enough ice for several parties to climb at the same time. There is a fun WI4 climb to the far left that can be top-roped from trees. It's short (30feet) but fun. There are currently lots of little steep steps that make the climbing fun and diverse.
Lincoln falls is IN. There is not as much ice as in previous years but there is enough ice for everyone to climb. The Scottish gully is in good shape at WI3 and steps of WI4. The Upper Falls is slowly getting longer but some ice has fallen off in the past week. At the moment there should be enough ice for several parties to climb at the same time. There is a fun WI4 climb to the far left that can be top-roped from trees. It's short (30feet) but fun. There are currently lots of little steep steps that make the climbing fun and diverse.
| Candlestick | 12/16 | The Candlestick (AKA The Needle) is formed all the way. Steep at WI4+. |
| Glenwood Ice fall | 12/16 | Have not heard. |
| Mt Lincoln Ice | 12/16 | The Scottish gully has formed all the way at WI3 with a final step of WI4. There are alot of little steep steps and there is a 30 foot column to the far left that is WI4 and can be TRed from trees. The upper Flow is almost touching down but still a ways off and the Lower Flow is dry as a bone....... The walk in is casual and packed down. |
| Tony's Nightmare | 12/16 | Not formed yet. Soon. |
| Total Abandon | 12/16 | Total Abandon is in great shape right now with the first pitch lightly iced (M4/5) and well protected with nuts and cams. Pitch two is WI4 and is protectable with two screws and nuts. Bring a #3 Camelot. Pitch three is easy and mostly kicked-out. Be aware of avalanche danger on the hike in. |
Front Range
Jan. 3rd. There was ice yesterday on the First Flatiron. It may only last another day with the warm temps. Check Mous-ka-tears but that climb might have melted out.
Jan. 3rd. There was ice yesterday on the First Flatiron. It may only last another day with the warm temps. Check Mous-ka-tears but that climb might have melted out.
| Flatirons other places | 12/17 | There is ice on the First Flatiron, East Face regular route. There is also ice further south, to the left of the regular route on other aspects. Further afield, there seems to be ice on the 4th and 5th Flatiron. Best to jump on these climbs ASAP as they won't last long in these present (Dec. 15) warm temps. |
Clear Creek Canyon
There is thick ice in the second and third drainage. The Ticket is NOT in. In both drainages there are two pitches of ice.
There is thick ice in the second and third drainage. The Ticket is NOT in. In both drainages there are two pitches of ice.
| Coors Light etc | 12/16 | Coors Lite is thin but climbable. |
Boulder Canyon
There is good ice at the Upper Falls area. The Candlestick probably will not come in this season but there is enough ice to have fun on. The Lower Falls area has two climbs and the ice is a bit thin.
There is good ice at the Upper Falls area. The Candlestick probably will not come in this season but there is enough ice to have fun on. The Lower Falls area has two climbs and the ice is a bit thin.
| Castle Rock Climbs | 12/16 | The ice at both the Upper and Lower areas has come IN. There isn't alot of ice but enough to have fun on |
RMNP
Most trails into the climbs are packed and skis or snowshoes aren't necessary. Necrophilia is out. Deep Freeze is out. The Smear of Fear is NOT going to come in. Joe's Solo is IN. Routes that are in are: Black Lake Slabs. Stone Man.....three separate lines to climb. Martha is IN. The ice is looking good everywhere. Jaws is IN. All-Mixed-Up. Thin ice. Bring more rock gear than ice gear. Baracuda (to the right of AMU)is thin but climbable. Notchtop East (or Northeast) Face. First pitch is the crux. Bring ice screws and the usual rock gear. It's getting climbed. Alexander's Chimney: thin but getting climbed. Peacock Pool routes are in good shape. Bullett (over by Hallett's). Thin but seeing ascents. Some stuff over by Nymph Lake. Jewel Lake ice is IN and is very popular. Dreamweaver is mostly snow. Grace Falls has come in and is WI4. New Beginnings is IN. Loch Vale Ice is IN. Some stuff on Guide's Wall below Notchtop. Hidden Falls is IN. Jaws is IN.
Most trails into the climbs are packed and skis or snowshoes aren't necessary. Necrophilia is out. Deep Freeze is out. The Smear of Fear is NOT going to come in. Joe's Solo is IN. Routes that are in are: Black Lake Slabs. Stone Man.....three separate lines to climb. Martha is IN. The ice is looking good everywhere. Jaws is IN. All-Mixed-Up. Thin ice. Bring more rock gear than ice gear. Baracuda (to the right of AMU)is thin but climbable. Notchtop East (or Northeast) Face. First pitch is the crux. Bring ice screws and the usual rock gear. It's getting climbed. Alexander's Chimney: thin but getting climbed. Peacock Pool routes are in good shape. Bullett (over by Hallett's). Thin but seeing ascents. Some stuff over by Nymph Lake. Jewel Lake ice is IN and is very popular. Dreamweaver is mostly snow. Grace Falls has come in and is WI4. New Beginnings is IN. Loch Vale Ice is IN. Some stuff on Guide's Wall below Notchtop. Hidden Falls is IN. Jaws is IN.
| Alexander's Chimney | 12/16 | Alexander's is getting climbed. It's a little thin especially at the Chockstone Pitch. It is adequately protected with cams and nuts. The usual scenario where the last pitch is mostly rock with patches of snow and ice. People are rappelling the route in four raps with a single 70m rope. |
| All-Mixed-Up | 12/16 | AMU is climabable but very thin. The ice is thin and rock gear is mainly preferred over ice screws. The ice is slightly detached from the rock so it's a bit scary to lead but safe otherwise. Trail is packed all the way in. |
| Dreamweaver | 12/16 | Dreamweaver is getting climbed and is OK shape. Mostly it is consolidated snow and not much ice but evidently still fun. Be aware of avi potential if the slopes to the climb seem wind-packed. |
| Field's Chimney | 12/16 | No ice that I am aware of. It isn't IN. |
| Flying Dutchman | 11/20 | Nothing so far. |
| Hallett's Chimney | 12/16 | Not formed. |
| Hidden Falls | 12/16 | Conditions are thin but there is enough to have fun. |
| Jaws | 12/16 | Jaws has formed in WI4+ shape and is seing some action. |
| Loch Vale area | 11/20 | Not enough ice yet to justify the "short" walk. Probably in two weeks we'll have enough ice to climb. |
| Martha | 12/16 | Martha is NOT in. Mostly snow right now. |
| Mt. Lady Washington | 12/16 | As of Dec. 15th, nothing is in. |
| Necrophilia and Deep Freeze | 12/16 | Necrophilia is NOT in. Deep Freeze is not IN. |
| Notchtop | 12/16 | The Northeast/East face is getting climbed and has been in shape now for about one month. The first pitch is the crux. Protection is mainly from ice screws but take a light rock rack as well. Avi conditions seem moderate as of 12/15/09. |
| The Smear of Fear | 12/16 | The Smear is NOT in and probably won't form this winter... |
| The Squid and Calamari | 12/16 | BOTH came in but melted out about four weeks ago. Nothing at the moment. |
Vail Ice
The Firehouse area is looking good. Spiral Staircase is chopped out at WI3. The Pencil and the Eraser are both IN. Jam-it (Left of Spiral) has formed but sublimating out. Secret Probation is looking pretty beat-up but climbable. There is a WI5 pillar left of Secret Probation. Frigid Inseminator is IN but very thin. Dr. Delicate is forming but might be going out. The Fang has formed but is still pretty thin and fragile. Rigid Designator is IN and pretty chopped up already.. A new route has been added to the M6/7 bolted route tally in Vail. As yet it is unnamed but it is located to the right of the rightmost ice flow in the Firehouse area. Powerful roof moves take one to the crux roof (m6/7) and to a good rest. Bolts protect thin and technical climbing straight up to the top. 100 feet long. Lower off the top. There are about 4 new bolted routes in the Amphitheatre area. Booth Creek area has four or five routes.
The Firehouse area is looking good. Spiral Staircase is chopped out at WI3. The Pencil and the Eraser are both IN. Jam-it (Left of Spiral) has formed but sublimating out. Secret Probation is looking pretty beat-up but climbable. There is a WI5 pillar left of Secret Probation. Frigid Inseminator is IN but very thin. Dr. Delicate is forming but might be going out. The Fang has formed but is still pretty thin and fragile. Rigid Designator is IN and pretty chopped up already.. A new route has been added to the M6/7 bolted route tally in Vail. As yet it is unnamed but it is located to the right of the rightmost ice flow in the Firehouse area. Powerful roof moves take one to the crux roof (m6/7) and to a good rest. Bolts protect thin and technical climbing straight up to the top. 100 feet long. Lower off the top. There are about 4 new bolted routes in the Amphitheatre area. Booth Creek area has four or five routes.
| Rigid Designator area | 12/16 | The Rigid Designator is formed and getting climbed. Spiral Stairs is getting climbed and is "choppy". The Pencil is N. Eraser is IN. Frigid Inseminator is IN. |
Ouray Ice Park
Ice Park is now open and looking good!! Ice Festival is January 8-11, 2010.
Ice Park is now open and looking good!! Ice Festival is January 8-11, 2010.
| Ouray Ice Park Climbs | 11/20 | Nothing yet. The ice park opens around mid-December. |
Ouray
Horsetail Falls is IN. Over the Rainbow is IN. Cascade Falls is IN. Solar Circus is IN. Many other routes have formed. It's lookin' good. Gravity's Rainbow is almost formed. There are six or more routes in the Skylight area on Camp Bird Road and they are in pretty thick. The Ribbon and Bird Brain Blvd are NOT formed yet. Ouray Ice Festival is January 8-11th.
Horsetail Falls is IN. Over the Rainbow is IN. Cascade Falls is IN. Solar Circus is IN. Many other routes have formed. It's lookin' good. Gravity's Rainbow is almost formed. There are six or more routes in the Skylight area on Camp Bird Road and they are in pretty thick. The Ribbon and Bird Brain Blvd are NOT formed yet. Ouray Ice Festival is January 8-11th.
| Ames Ice Hose | 12/16 | The entire climb is IN classic shape. Meaning that the first pitch is "spicy" but protected with stubbies. Steep and thin climbing first two pitches. Last pitch is narrow but fully protected with 17cm screws. |
| Climbs in the Ouray Area | 12/16 | Over the Rainbow is IN. Horsetail FAlls is IN. Cascade Falls is IN. |
Silverton Area
Still a bit boney but: Stairway to Heaven is IN. Second Gully is IN. Hoser Highway is IN. Whorehouse Hoses is IN Things are shaping up nicely.
Still a bit boney but: Stairway to Heaven is IN. Second Gully is IN. Hoser Highway is IN. Whorehouse Hoses is IN Things are shaping up nicely.
| Stairway to Heaven | 12/16 | Stairway is formed all the way and getting climbed regularily. |
| Whore House Hose | 12/16 | The entire climb is IN. |
Pike's Peak
Blind Assumption and Total Abandon are still IN. Again, double check on the road closure and be aware of the avalanche danger on the approach.
Blind Assumption and Total Abandon are still IN. Again, double check on the road closure and be aware of the avalanche danger on the approach.
| Blind Assumption | 12/16 | Blind Assumption is still in very good shape right now, being slightly easier than Total Abandon. All three pitches are in thick and mainly ice screws are needed/used for protection. Take a light rack of cams or nuts. |
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